Build Journals 2026-07-11 11:00 42 reads

1998 E36 M3 Track Build – 18 months in, cage is done. What tire compound should I run for Buttonwillow in summer?

 1998 E36 M3 Track Build – 18 months in, cage is done. What tire compound should I run for Buttonwillow in summer?

This is the 18‑month update on my E36 M3 track car – the 6‑point roll cage is finally welded and painted, and the car is corner‑balanced at 2,950 lbs with driver. Now I’m shifting focus to the final variable: tire compound. The car runs on 17×9.5” wheels, with a full suspension overhaul (AST 5100 coilovers, spherical bushings, adjustable sway bars) and a stock S52 on a 250‑chip tune, plus brake upgrades.

It’s been 18 months since I dragged this rolling shell out of a barn in Fresno. What started as a rusty, non‑running ’98 M3 coupe is now a dedicated track car that actually scares me a little – in a good way. The last big milestone was finishing the 6‑point roll cage (DOM .120 wall, welded to 6” plates, with a removable diagonal and harness bar). I painted it with a brush and rust‑oleum because I’m cheap and I wanted it done, not pretty. Then I corner‑balanced it on Longacre scales with me in the driver’s seat: 2,950 lbs wet, cross‑weights within 0.2%. That was two weeks ago.

Quick specs for context:

  • Engine: Bone‑stock S52 with a Conforti 250‑chip, cold air intake, and a cat‑back. Dyno’d 215 whp on a Mustang dyno – I know, it’s not a monster, but it’s reliable and I’m still learning to drive.

  • Cooling: Z3 M radiator, Stewart water pump, SPAL electric fan, 80°C thermostat. Oil cooler with a Setrab 625 core.

  • Transmission: ZF 5‑speed, upgraded clutch (E34 M5 sprung hub), UUC DSSR and shifter.

  • Diff: 3.46 LSD with a 40% ramp – rebuilt with new clutches and preload.

  • Suspension: AST 5100 coilovers (single‑adjustable) with 500# front / 650# rear springs. Ground Control camber plates, full spherical bearing kit from Turner, adjustable front sway bar (stock rear bar for now).

  • Brakes: StopTech ST‑40 front (332mm) with PFC 08 pads, stock rear calipers with PFC 08, brass guides, Motul RBF660.

  • Wheels: Apex ARC‑8 17x9.5” ET35 square. Currently shod with worn‑out Hankook RS‑4 that have seen 12 heat cycles – they’re done.

The cage install took me 6 weekends because I’m an amateur welder and had to re‑do the main hoop notches twice. But it passed the “beat it with a hammer and it rings” test, and I mounted the OMP HTE‑R seat to the floor so my helmet clears the roof by 1.5 inches. I also added a fire extinguisher, cut‑off switch, and a 6‑point harness. The car feels rigid now – turn‑in is razor‑sharp, but the rear end talks to me more than before.

JIANZHI_draw_image_1783652400526.jpg

Now the question that’s keeping me up at night:
Buttonwillow in mid‑July. Configuration 13 with the bus stop (the long one). I’ve run this track before in spring on RS‑4s and did a 2:06.8, which is mediocre. With the new suspension and cage, I think I can drop 2–3 seconds, but I need a tire that won’t turn into gum after 3 laps in 100°F heat.

My shortlist:

  1. Yokohama A052 – I know they’re the fastest 200‑tw when new, but every forum says they overheat quickly and wear out in 4 sessions. At Buttonwillow in summer, is that a deal‑breaker? I don’t want to spend $1,200 on tires that are greasy by lunchtime.

  2. Bridgestone RE‑71RS – Supposedly better heat tolerance than the old RE‑71R, and they’re the new time‑trial darling. But they’re stiff‑sidewalled – will that upset my ASTs? I’m running relatively soft spring rates (500/650) because I like mechanical grip over kerb‑hopping.

  3. Falken RT660 – Cheap, durable, and I see a lot of E36 guys running them. But they’re not as fast as the Yokos, and the peak grip window is narrow. Would they overheat less? Some say the compound falls off after 8 laps anyway.

  4. Wildcard: Nankang CR‑S – I’ve heard the V2 compound is more consistent in heat, but I have zero experience and they’re hard to find in 255/40R17.

I’m leaning toward the RE‑71RS because I value consistency over a single hot lap, but I’ve never driven them. My buddy says “just run R7s” but I’m not trailering – I drive to the track (2 hours each way) and I need to get home on the same tires. So must be 200‑tw street‑legal.

Other details: I’m running -3.2° front camber, -2.0° rear, zero toe front, 1/8” total toe‑in rear. Tire pressures I usually start at 32 psi cold and aim for 38 hot.

What would you run? Have you tracked any of these at Buttonwillow in July? Or do you have a completely different recommendation (e.g., Goodyear Supercar 3R, or even the new Kumho V730)? I’m not chasing a class championship – I just want to improve my personal best and have fun without coming home on a flatbed.

Also, if you’ve got a favorite alignment tweak for this track, shout it out. I’m open to changing rear toe or camber if the tire choice demands it.

Post your tire horror stories, success stories, and lap times. I’ll log every suggestion and report back after the event. Thanks in advance – this community is the only place I trust to get real answers, not marketing fluff.

Last updated · 2026-07-11 11:01
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